Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 does not tell you whether a shirt is well made. It does something narrower and more useful: textile products sold on the EU market must state their fibre composition using authorised fibre names and percentages. In a blend, fibres are listed in descending order by weight.
That is a starting point, not a verdict. A label saying "60% cotton, 40% polyester" documents the fibres in the garment. It does not, by itself, explain yarn quality, fabric density, dyeing, seams, resistance to wear, raw material origin or total environmental impact. The percentage matters. It is not the whole story.
What the label actually has to say
The EU rule is built around comparable information. Regulation 1007/2011 restricts fibre names to those listed in Annex I and reserves those names for fibres matching the legal description. "Cotton", "viscose" and "polyester" are not marketing adjectives. They are regulated technical names.
For multi-fibre products, Article 9 requires the name and percentage by weight of all constituent fibres in descending order. There are exceptions and tolerances: small technically unavoidable quantities may not need to appear, and in some cases the term "other fibres" can be used. The label is regulated, but it is not a perfect molecular photograph.
The European Commission also makes an important distinction: the textile composition regulation does not cover size, country of origin or wash and care instructions. Those details may be present and useful, but they are separate from fibre composition.
Natural, man-made, synthetic: useful categories, poor slogans
Natural fibres, such as cotton, linen and wool, occur in fibrous form in nature and are then harvested and processed. Cotton can absorb moisture and work well in many everyday garments, but it can shrink, dry slowly and crease. Growing and processing it may involve water, land, energy, treatments and textile chemistry. "Natural" does not automatically mean low impact.
Man-made or regenerated cellulosic fibres, such as viscose, modal and lyocell, start from cellulose, often from wood or other plant sources, but become fibre through industrial processes. Viscose is therefore neither cotton nor polyester. It is a man-made cellulosic fibre. It can provide softness and drape, but performance depends on the process, yarn and finished fabric.
Synthetic fibres, such as polyester, polyamide and acrylic, are based on industrially produced polymers. Polyester is common because it is light, dimensionally stable, quick drying and less prone to creasing. The European Environment Agency notes that synthetic textiles use fossil resources and can release microplastics during their life cycle, including production, use and washing. The useful question is not whether synthetic always means worse, but what trade-off the garment makes.
A blend is not automatically a flaw
Many garments are blends because one fibre alone does not always deliver the desired result. Cotton and polyester can be combined to balance absorbency, drying, dimensional stability and cost. Viscose and elastane can give softness and stretch. Wool and polyamide can make socks more resistant to abrasion.
Percentages still need careful reading. A 5% elastane share can strongly affect fit even though it weighs little. A 100% cotton garment can be sturdy or fragile depending on fabric weight, yarn twist, weave, finishing and seams. A 70% polyester fabric may be a technical sports garment, an inexpensive shirt or a lining. Same fibre, different performance.
The component also matters. A coat may have an outer fabric in wool and polyester, a polyester lining, polyester or down filling and non-textile details. EU rules address relevant textile components, but the reader still has to check which part of the garment the composition refers to.
Real use: what to check before buying
For an everyday T-shirt, read composition together with hand feel, fabric thickness, side seams, neckline and care instructions. Cotton may be comfortable for many daily uses, but a very thin cotton jersey can lose shape quickly. A small elastane content may improve fit while making care more delicate.
For sportswear or travel clothing, polyester may be practical because it dries quickly and holds its shape. That does not remove the microfibre issue. Less aggressive washing, lower temperatures where suitable, careful loading and specific filters or laundry bags can reduce some release, without eliminating it.
For shirts, dresses and fluid garments, viscose can offer drape and softness. The practical limit is that some viscose fabrics lose strength when wet, crease easily or require gentler washing. The composition label says "viscose"; the care label tells you how realistic the upkeep will be.
Skin comfort should be described cautiously. Composition can influence perceived breathability, absorbency, friction and warmth, but individual response also depends on finishes, dyes, fit, climate, activity and personal sensitivity. The label helps you ask better questions. It is not a medical answer.
Care: durability is not only in the fibre
The EU textile strategy looks at the whole life cycle of textile products. That is useful at consumer level too: a durable garment depends not only on the fibre, but also on design, fabric quality, repairability, washing and end of life.
Before buying, check whether care fits your real routine. A garment that requires hand washing or professional cleaning may be reasonable for occasional use and inconvenient for everyday wear. A slow-drying fabric may be impractical for travel. A fabric that creases heavily may require frequent ironing, adding time and energy.
The most practical reading combines three layers: composition, construction and care. Composition says what it is made from. Construction shows how it is made. Care explains whether keeping it in good condition is realistic.
Useful claims, incomplete claims
Under EU rules, terms such as "100%", "pure" or "all" can be used only for products made exclusively of the same fibre, subject to specific technical tolerances. That is a strong claim because it has a legal basis.
Other claims need more context. "Bamboo" may describe a plant source, but the fibre on the label is often viscose from bamboo: the fibre name remains viscose. "Recycled polyester" can reduce reliance on virgin material, but it does not automatically prove durability, microfibre release or recyclability of the finished garment. "Organic cotton" concerns how cotton is grown, not by itself the quality of the fabric or garment construction.
A useful sequence is simple:
- identify the main fibre and ask whether it fits the intended use;
- look at minor fibres, because small shares can change stretch, hand feel and care;
- check whether outer fabric, lining, filling and details are separated;
- compare composition with care instructions;
- treat environmental claims as information to verify, not as final conclusions.
Conclusion
The textile label is not a scorecard. It is the first document to read. It tells you which fibres are present and in what percentages, while leaving out many decisive details: yarn quality, structure, finishing, care, real use and durability. Everyday choices do not involve only food or utensils, but also the materials we buy, wear and wash.
Sources cited
- Regulation (EU) No 1007/2011 on textile fibre names and fibre-composition labelling.
- Your Europe, Textile label, practical EU labelling requirements.
- European Commission, Textile Labelling Regulation, scope and limits.
- ISO 2076:2021, Textiles — Man-made fibres — Generic names.
- European Commission, EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, 2022.
- European Environment Agency, Plastic in textiles, 2021.
- European Environment Agency, Microplastics from textiles, 2022.
